Wanderer Bala

Mahabaleshwar

2006-04-08T00:24:00.000-07:00

Nestling in the Sahyadri range of the Western Ghats, Mahabaleshwar is the highest hill station in Western India and it as religious and historical associations. My trip to this hill station started from the Bollywood city of Mumbai. I took a bus from Dadar one of the busiest places in Mumbai. The air-condition bus cost Rs. 300 and it will take about four to five hours.

During my trip I did various activities I visited ancient temples, beautiful points of Mahabaleshwar, unforgettable trek to Pratapgad Fort, a stronghold of the Maratha leader Shivaji, boating at lake and finally roamed through the tiny lanes of the bazaar, and did some shopping from luscious strawberries, blackberries, jams and jellies.

My drive started from Mumbai on the newly built express highway which connects Mumbai and Pune. Driving discipline which was lacking in India rediscovered on this express highway drivers are well behaved and controlled systems where right from a haystack. The most important even lorry drivers follow the rules and regulations. It is another landmark of modern India.

My bus passed through couple of tunnels on the highway and there are separate tunnels for traffic in each direction. The highway fenced to avoid humans/animals crossing the expressway and no two wheelers, three wheelers and tractor vehicles allowed which helps to control accidents.

After leaving from Mumbai our first stop was at a tea shop on the highway at mid night before we start our drive on the hill. The bus dropped us at the Mahabaleshwar main market at 3 in the morning. It was dark and it was too chill. As soon the bus dropped us taxi drivers and local guides ran towards us to sell hotel room and to book us for local sightseeing.

With the help of the local guide I took a hotel close to the market the room rent was Rs. 500 per day with compliment break fast. The room does not have fan or air condition since there won’t be any need also whether it’s summer or winter Mahabaleshwar always pleasant. After checking into the hotel I slept for 4 hours and then I started roaming around.

Mahabaleshwar was the summer capital of the erstwhile Bombay presidency. A popular town with an air of unspoilt beauty at an altitude of 1,372 m.

The hill station offers a breathtaking view of valleys below which are full of ever green forest and a lush undergrowth. Many springs and water falls abound in this hill station which offers best view point. The winding ride through thick foliage was one of the best experiences I had in my life.

Day 1
My first visit for the day was to Arthur Seat which is about 12kms from the main market. Named after Arthur Malet it is Mahabaleshwar's most famous point overlooking the densely forested valley. It offers the most beautiful and picturesque spot overlooking Konkan. There is a very thick jungle miles and miles around and is called ‘Brahmaranya’. There is a sheer drop of about 2,000 ft culminating in the Savitri Valley below

It is interesting from this point, to watch a straw hat or a handkerchief, tossed down, sailing attractively in the air like a spread-out parachute!

The other best view from Arthur Seat is to see Ragiadh Fort and Torna fort from this point.

From Arthur Malet I took few steps which is about 200 ft below through narrow path which lead me to Window point a ledge of big rock which gives a amazing view.

While coming back from Arthur Seat I stopped at Old Mahableshwar an ancient religious place nestled in the clearing of the forest. I visited two magnificent temples in Old Mahableshwar Siva Temple of Mahabali which as Shiva Pindi having natural spring which flows throughout the year.

The second temple was Krishnabai Temple which was built during Yadava Dynasty by Raja Singham in 13th century. Looking back the history which says Chatrapati Shivaji leader of Marathas and his mother Jeehabai visited Mahableshwar to seek spiritual advice from learned Brahman staying here. In this temple there is a cow head carved in stone through which it is believed water from five holy rivers include Krishna, Veena, Koyana, Savitri and Gayatri comes out. This temple also called Panchaganga temple.

My next stop was at Connaught Peak which is the second highest peak of Mahableshwar. It offers a panoramic view of the Vena Lake and Krishna Valley. It was first known as Mount Olympia and was a favorite spot for riders. The Duke of Connaught was so enchanted by its majestic view that he could not resist the temptation of associating his name with the spot. Hence in 1880, Mount Olympia became Connaught Peak.

Then I headed to Kate’s point which gives panoramic view of Dhom Dam and Deccan Plateu. The best time to visit this place during winter when the skies are clear and will give you amazing view when the dam is full. The view of three peaks of Kamalgadh, Pandavgadh and Mandhardeo was also amazing and it was an clear view.

While I was going to Bombay point for sun set on my way i stopped at Wilson point. It is a vast bare rock with three observation towers erected at different spots. It is a major attraction for tourists during sun rise in the morning.

Bombay point is one of the earliest known points in Mahabaleshwar. Every evening visitors rush to the peak to get a spectacular view of the sunset.

I reached the point before the sun started setting so I sat on the huge open space and was looking at Prtapgarh and Makrandgarh fort it was an amazing view and the valley scene was also breathtaking within couple of minutes the sun started setting down and the sky.

My first day concluded with shopping in the main market followed by dinner.

Day 2
I woke up at 4.30 in the morning probably I will be the first person who woke up that early in Mahabaleshwar. It was too chill and it was totally dark when I came out from my room the road was empty. I desperately looking for tea shop but I couldn’t find one.

I started driving towards Pratapgadh fort, which is about 20 km from my hotel. With the help of our mist light in our car we drove in the early morning hours.

I reached the foot of this hill and started climbing to the fort. A serpentine winding steps lead to one of the most historic monument built by Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj in 1656.

Pratapgad is about 900 mts above sea level. Moropant Trimbak Pingale built this fort in 1656 AD at the command of Chatrapathi Shivaji to strengthen and to dominate the road system of the empire who dedicated his life to the two mottos. The first mission of his life was to win back what he considered to be Maratha and for the Marathis against the usurping Mughal invaders from the north. The second motto of his life was to reinstate India's native Hinduism against what he believed to be the alien instruction of Islam; Shivaji built this fort with the former motive in mind. The majestic Pratapgadh fort is also the housing the tomb of Afzalkhan at the toe of the fort.

During the climb I could see the distant sides. Corner bastions support a double bank of fortifications. The trek gave a great view of the area surrounding the fort. The windy rugged rocky heights of Pratapgarh gave me a brisk and encouraged me to trek.

I went through the rounded main gate on the entrance called the 'Maha Darwaza' towers up with vertical slits. The first came across the Bhavani Temple a local name given to Goddess Parvati in the fort. Shivaji built this temple in a religious emergency as he was unable to visit the Bhavani temple at Tuljapur. It was built in the last decade of the 17th Century. The windswept Bhavani temple possesses a pair of rugged lantern pillars.

There is a statue of Shivaji inside the fort called Bale killa. At this place, Shivaji, leader of the Marathas and Afzal Khan the general of the Bijapur army decided to meet about a possible truce. Neither was supposed to carry weapons or wear armor but Afzal Khan hided a knife and during the meeting stabbed Shivaji who was wearing a mail shirt under his robe. Shivaji then pulled out his waghnakh (metal claws) with his left hand and killed Afzal Khan. Located here is a memorial to Shivaji and Afzal Khan’s tomb.

Then I went to a temple of the goddess Bhawani who as eight hands inside the fort premises. Bhawani was the Kuldevta (family god) for Shivaji.

The interesting aspect of this temple was the origin of the idol Goddess Bhawani. It is said that it was brought from Nepal where it was made in Shaligram found in the famous Gandaki River.

Looking around the fort I came out and was standing and enjoying the beauty of the fort from the top it was a wonderful view of the lush green valley and the forts of Raigad and Makarandgad. On the east and the south the hill had a steep slopes covered with dense forest in contrast with rocky west and the north. The hill gradually descends to the valleys separating Mahabaleshwar and Kineshwar range on the east and the Konkan valley on the west.

As i trek further from the lower fort i came across the temple dedicated to Lord Shiva in the upper fort where the ruins of residential buildings and barracks made for Shivaji's army against the Muslim invaders.

While climbing back I stopped at tomb dedicated to Afzal Khan who was killed by Shivaji. Muslims hold a memorial service every January or February at the Dargah of Afzal Khan.

After visiting the historical fort I headed back to my room, while I was driving back to my room I was discussing with my cab driver and was asking about the forts around Maharasthra. I was bit surprised when I got the list from him. As soon I reached my room I refreshed and started thinking while having my tea and decided I must go back to Mumbai in a taxi and must cover all the historical forts. (Click here to read my visit to the famous forts)

Thinking and planning my trip I got refreshed and got ready for the evening I headed to Shri Shankar Mandir the Mahalinga of the Lord Shiva is of Rudraksha shape and believed to be 'self-bodied' (swayambhoo) It is called Trigunatmaka meaning Brahma-Visnhu-Mahesh (three Hindu gods) are on it for ever. On the head of the Mahalinga there were marks of the five holy rivers (Panchaganga) and the waters never loose their level. Mother Jeejabai was weighed by gold by Raja Shivaji in this temple and then the gold was distributed in charity. This Mahalinga is considered to be superior to the twelve jyotirlingas.

Another old temple was Shri Krishnabai Mandir, the carving in the stones of the columns & the ceiling is very attractive along with the grand view of Krishna valley from the temple.

There are lot more places and points to see in Mahableshwar but time is the constrain. If you are planning to be in Mahableshwar make sure you spend at least three or four days to enjoy this nature’s gift – Mahableshwar.

How to get there
The nearest airport is Pune 120 Km, rail the nearest railhead is Satara 53 Km, but the convenient railhead is Pune 120 Km, on the Central Railway line connected with important cities/ towns.

By Road: Motorable roads Mumbai 237 Km, Pune 120 Km via Mahad & Panvel Satara 53 Km, Aurangabad 348 Km, Kolhapur 176 Km and 283 Km via Pune, Lonavala 184 Km and Panaji 438 Km

Best time to visit Mahabaleshwar between October and May.

A Tibet in India- Bylakuppe

2006-03-23T20:33:00.000-08:00

It was a pleasant evening that led this lush journey by crossing the mountains, cut through the forests looking for Bylakuppe, which has a little more than four decades of history to it a charming village presents itself to the unsuspecting traveller.

A diversion from the Kushal Nagar highway lead to Bylakuppe. My first stike to see gaggles of road-cloaked Buddhist monks wandering down the lanes, prayer flags fluttering in the wind, sign boards saying “Long Live Dalai Lama” and slogans against Chinese. (Click here for pictures)

A riot of colors soon gives way to a monastery surrounded my green fields. The mixture of images waving colorful flags fluttering - wishing success and removing the evil around, monks, long flowing red robes, golden Buddhas, prayer wheels, colourful paintings and smiling faces is an mixture of harmony and exotica - Bylakuppe or the ‘place of rains’ is one of the first and largets Tibetan settlements in Karnataka outside Tibet.

The village is well planned with medical centres, community halls, schools, playgrounds, communication facilities, shops and restaurants.

My first stop was at a Teashop in Bylakuppee for a refresh and to taste the food along with Tibetan music. There are the momus, a steamed samosa with minced meat and the thupka a specialty for vegetarians. After a cup of tea and a samosa i went around the colourful market and saw several Tanka paintings, embellished with small pieces of gold that comes all the way from Nepal.

After a refreshing Tea and samosa I started towards Golden Temple the drive was for 8 kms between the green fields.

Bylakuppe — the main monastery. As i entered the monastery air echoed with chants and loud voices of Lamas arguing and slapping their palms. They were debating and were asking each other question. They were dressed in bright yellow and red robes pour forth from all directions and converge here. This is the centre of Buddhist studies, as schools and universities dot the landscape and monks come from all over the world to study here.

They were studying English, Science and Mathematics besides Tibetan history and Buddhism. We heard that some of these boys have actually walked all the way from Tibet to India.
When I entered into the main temple - Golden Buddha Temple - tall shimmering Buddha’s smiled at me. The high golden roof sealing and tall shimmering Buddha’s took away my breath. Inside the temple more than 150 Lama’s were debating and were studying in Sanskrit. On the other side daily pooja’s were performed by a monk.

A visit to the Lama’s Camp is all that takes to realise the true essence of the settlement. There are more than five monasteries here, which include the Serajhe, and the Nyingpa monasteries.
I spoke one of the Lama’s inside the temple he said “for us Tibet lies only in the imagination, i never knew how my motherland will look like” Most of his families are still in Tibet.
His silence face and quiet is the unspoken word that strongly echoes around “freedom for his motherland”

I read one of the stories of a lama named Tenzen who narrated his story. “We came in 1991. I was only five years old. It was very, very cold. We walked through the East Mountains, hid in the snow, so that the Chinese don’t see us. It took us more than 20 days to reach Nepal and then we came here,” he says.

It’s a different world out here with entirely different values. Boy lamas start taking their vows when they are eight years old. “Before we are 20 years old, we take another 36 vows and after that, we have as many as 200 vows. Celibacy is just one of them,”

In Bylakuppe, time seemed to stand still, no one is in a hurry. Walking through the narrow slushy lanes, life seemed to follow a pattern of its own. Children were playing on schools, old womens were meditating with their prayer wheels and they are very managing restaurants, shops or working in farms, men were playing “Shopara” with marbles.

Getting there
If you are planning for a trip to Bylakuppe it’s a good idea to have your own transportation or to spend couple of days and wander at your leisure to cover nearly 20 villages. One of the villages Sera Je and Sera Mey monasteries, which together have 2,500 monks making this one of the three largest Tibetan monasteries in exile.

Bylakuppe is in Coorg and is located very close to Kushalnagar. The closest railhead is Mysore. It’s a little more than a two-hour drive to the settlement via Hunsur and Virajpet.

Wher to stay
The settlement has a guesthouse at Bylakuppe, or you can stay over at Kushalnagar.

Want to know more about details about the place write to me at tenarasimhan@gmail.com

Home

Keep Walking with Mother Nature - Matheran

2006-03-23T20:31:00.000-08:00

Imagine a world with no tar roads, no motor vehicles, no phones, no papers, no smell of gasolene, only green trees and trees all around, clean fresh air and aerial views that are breathtakingly beautiful. The world is not very far away just 140 kms from Mumbai then you get Matheran. It was discovered by British collector of Thane Mr. Huge Mallet in 1850.

On a Friday evening my journey started from Mumbai by car after two hectic days in Mumbai towards Matheran.

Matheran the name is a Marathi term, denoting the “Mother Nature” or “Hill Head”. is a small hill station with no motor vehicles and totally echo-friendly related hill station. The vehicles will be stopped before 3 kms in a place called Dasturi, which is the last point where one can drive up to. It is secured place vehicles cane be parked as long you want.

From parking area one can walk, can use the other service include toy train, horse or a rikshaw to the main market. The train service stopped since tracks were damaged badly due to the recent heavy train in which Mumbai sunk. The service stopped and it will take another two years. But if one want to enjoy Matheran then he should walk.

It will take 30-40 to reach the main market or the centre point of Matheran the trek will be full of greenery and on the railway track on the left side it will be totally green valley and on the right side it was full of trees.

Main market will be crowded and room rent will be high good idea is to take a paying guess accommodation outside the market area. For Rs. 500 one can get a room with bed and food.

Day 1
We started walking in the railway track, it was totally dark after walking for around 6kms we reached to a small house cum tea shop. There were few stone chairs in front of the house my driver and the guide sat in the chair I thought I will go walk further for few meters so I turned around and started walking but I couldn’t see anything in the front it was totally dark, after keeping few steps the guide and the lady who were in the tea shop were shouting in Marathi asking me to stop I was shocked, the driver came to me and said don’t go further, I was wondering why? I got the answer after 25min only.

After 25min slowly sun started rising slowly and the darkness went away, lights also have started coming, after few minutes I was shocked and was thinking no wonder why they guide and the lady shouted, the tea shop was in the tip of an hill point if I walked for another 30mtrs “that’s it I am gone” because I was walking towards the edge of the mountain. It was a beautiful sunrise view. Few people came there with pencils and paper and started sketching, some practiced yoga and meditation while others like me were talking pictures and was sitting on the edge.

After watching the sunrise I started walking, this time the path were getting narrower and narrower and it was inside the deep forest. While walking between the trees and forest I saw lot of beautiful house, which were built by British - few of the houses were broken houses.

The walk, the nature, the chilling rain, the green trees, the beautiful singing birds, watching horses gallop in the fog, took away my breath.

There are around 12 points in Matheran to visit, I visited only 9 off those, the first one I started with sunrise point.

After the Sunrise point I headed to monkey point it was very chill thankfully there was a chai wala (tea shop) in the point I was talking to the teashop person and asked him why did they name this point as monkey point.

He went back to the shop and came back with a binocular he pointed one direction and asked me to see through the binocular, I saw a cave - he was saying, till 10 years back the monkeys, which were in the Matheran lived inside the cave only. Every day these monkeys will come out from the cave in the morning and will return to the even today 90 % of the population does the same.

It was a fantastic site; huge expanses of land lay before me. Huge mountains could be seen at a distance. Then we headed towards echo point. We crossed through few resorts with green gardens and swings.

Echo point was surrounded in fog, though the attempts to produce an echo were futile, I decided not to give up after 15-20 minutes fog started moving and it was an amazing view and again a huge land lay before me.

Then we moved to Charlotte lake, the guide took us through a shortcut which turned out to be again a very thick forest. It was a big lake with lots of trees. The lake is the main source of water supply to Matheran. Then I went to edge of a beautiful waterfall though it was risky.

I started walking at 3.45 in the afternoon via panorama point, by 4.45 in the evening we reached the sun set point, we were early the sun was still bright so I decided to relax sometime, i sat down and the driver came with hot tea and a samosa, as soon I got the samosa in my hand monkeys surrounded me I have no choice I have to give up the samosa in the mean time the blue sky started turning to red. The sun started turning into red and clouds started covering it. After the sun fully set i left from the point and headed back to the room.

As I walked across the main market, I stopped for shopping and snacks. After an hour of shopping I started climbing down from the market towards my room by the time the whole Matheran was dark only torchlights. I reached my room by 8.30; by 9 I got my dinner after dinner I went to my bed and started writing the dairy about the day 1.

Day 2
Day started with a wake up call from my guide, again we went for sunrise but not to the same point which we went yesterday he took me to another point the sun rise was too good but a bit risky trek. After the sunrise while we were walking I saw few tribal people who all are in their modern dress we headed to tiger point.

The view was too good from the point, I saw the tribal village I thought of going to the village but did not permit me, so I decided I would next time.

Then we headed to Lion Head point, the point named as Lion Point since it will look like as if a lion is sitting if you see from the other points. It was also a pretty good view then I went to mount berry point. By end of the day I saw hart point, porcupine point, charlott, one trill hill, mount berry, myra, khandalopt, Alexander, rambaugh, little chowk point and chowl point.

I came back to the room around 8 in the evening I was totally exhausted by that time. After a quick shower I came out from the room to spend sometime with the house owner and with their family. We were sitting under open dark sky, the breeze was too chill we used fire. After talking to him I went to bed in the night.

After an unforgettable two days and experiencing one of the best treks in my life in Matheran with the blissfully forgotten cars, car horns and as the city life is back.

In just span of 48 hours, nature in Matheran showed me the joy of walking, slipping and falling and then walking again which taught me how to walk again when you slip and fall and when you see up and downs in life. No wonder how Matheran people live happily and peacefully living with nature. Relearned a lesson, respect nature and in life KEEP WALKING.

How to get there:
Road Map: Mumbai Central to Vashi (30 KM) to Panvel (20 KM) to Chowk Phata, Karjat (20 KM) to Neral (10 KM) to Dasturi (7 KM).

From Mumbai take the Pune highway. After Vashi/Panvel catch the old Pune highway. Do not take the express way to Pune.

Train route: It is well connected by rail both, from Mumbai and Pune upto Neral Junction Station, a station at the bottom of the hill. From Neral a small Toy Train (Narrow gauge) takes you through a zigzag route of about 21 kms. to Matheran in 2 hours time. Some marvelous valley scenes can be observed during this journey. Three small stations called Jumma Patti, Water Pipe and Aman Lodge are on the way to Matheran.

Home

Drive to Himachal

2006-03-23T20:28:00.000-08:00

Himachal (Him+Aanchal) literally means a dupatta or cover of snow, my drive to the hill stations of Himachal Pradesh include Shimla, Kullu, Manali and Rothangpass started from Delhi via three states of New Delhi, Punjab and Uttar Pradesh and finally to Himachal Pradesh.

Day 1
My first stop was at Kurukshetra near Panipet where the famous Mahabhartha war held. After taking a bath in a nearby lake before i went to a near by temple and to a village where Bhishma was believed to be lying in a bed of arrows to witness the conclusion of Kurukshetra war.

Then I continued my journey to Shimla via Chandigarh after about seven hours of journey i reached Shimla it was an very tiring journey further Shimla also made me upset in the beginning since it was too crowded probably more populated than Delhi. However I managed to find a beautiful paying guest accommodation on the foothills it was a small house surrounded by lots of flower gardens and apple trees and the view was awesome.

Shimla derives its name from Shyamla Devi, a local Hindu goddess. It was discovered by the British in the early 19th century and developed into a hill station during the later part of that century. It is spread along a 12 kilometre long ridge at a height of over 7, 000 feet above the sea level. When the British moved their Raj headquarters from Calcutta to New Delhi, they found the heat unbearable and decided to use Shimla (or Simla as it was called by them) as their summer capital.

As in other hill stations in India, everyone goes in Shimla to the mall in the evening to see and be seen. In fact there is not one but three Malls in Shimla. In addition to the main mall, there is also the Lakkar Mall and the Lower Mall where there are a large number of stores selling beautiful woodworks and shawls. The lower mall caters more to the natives than to the tourists who are happy to be fleeced by the high priced merchants, restaurants and souvenir shops on the main mall.

In the centre of the mall is a place known as Scandal Point, which is now adorned with a statue of Lala Lajpat Rai, the well-known Panjabi freedom fighter.

The whole mall was crowded and it was too much of noise it was polluted so I decided I should go back to the room and I decided to spend time in the apple garden. As soon I opened my room a chill hair hit my face because I left my windows open and on the other side it was a green. I sat on the balcony of the room and was looking at the hills and listening to Buddhist Monks chanting. I spent my night at Shimla.

Day 2
I woke up around 5 in the morning and I thought I should go for a walk. The morning was too chill and I walked for almost five to six kilometres along with the mist, butterflies and the smell of apples.

After about 30 min walk I saw a beautiful house as I went close to the house I was surprised it was Himachal Pradesh Tourism Office a old time British house and well maintained. After visiting the tourism house I came out by that time my body was freezing and I was desperately looking for hot tea after about 5 minutes walk I stopped at a small teashop on the roadside which run by an old man who prepared a masala tea i would say one of the best tea I had in my life. After about 2hrs walk I came back to my room and I packed up my things and thought I should not waste time in Shimla so I headed to Kullu.

From Shimla to Kullu the drive was full of breath taking sceneries and it was challenging because of the landslide and it was raining also. We travelled on narrow, winding roads, which hug the mountains on one side and have the river Beas on the other.
The drive provided one with a 360-degree view of the panoramic scenery of the land it traverses. The drive cheerfully chugs along mountain loops and valleys through dozens of tunnels, gorges and valleys. One could even run along it and get on it if one were bold enough to do so.

I checked into an small hotel on the banks of the Manali river. The room was amazing and it was very cheap with a river view room and it was more than comfortable and food was also very tasty. As i open my windows i could see the Manali River and I could hear the river flow through out the day and in nights it was bit scary but it was really nice. After my dinner I spent my night in the room.

Day 3
Again I woke up early morning and went for walk this time on the banks of the river I took walk for about four kilometres and I spent some time on the river banks, i collected some stones from the river. The river was too rough and it was in soil colour, there were high mountains surrounded by silent snows and deep boulder strewn gorges and full of cool breezes and bird song.

After spending sometime in the river i went to Hadimba Devi temple dedicated to Hadimba-wife of Bhima who was one of the Pandavas who visited this place during their exile. The temple was built by Raja Bahadur Singh in 1553 AD and has been constructed in Pagoda style. It has four-tiered Pagoda shaped roof and the doorway is carved with legendary figures and symbols. Hadimba Devi Temple in Manali is located amidst wooden forest of deodar is about 2.5 kms from the Manali market.

After visiting the temple and performing pooja’s I came out from the main temple while I was climbing down a small girl who will be around 4 or 5 years in her age was coming towards me on the other direction she was wearing her traditional dress with a bright smile in her face she was so cute.

Then i headed to Manu temple dedicated to the sage Manu who is the founder of the Manu Sastra. Manali itself is named after Manu, who is said to have dwelt here.

After visiting all the temples and a local sightseeing i came back to the room and I decided I will take rest and get ready for the next day trek at Rothang pass. My day ended with a walk in the freezing breeze.

Day 4 & 5
Please visit my separate posting on Rothangpass (Click here to read my drive to Rothangpass)

Day 6
Its time to say goodbye to Manali I packed up my things and I headed to Delhi it was a longggggggggggggggggggggggggg journey almost about 10-12 hrs.

After reaching Delhi I spent the night at Delhi.

Day 7
My trip concluded after I visited Mathura temple, which is a birthplace of Lord Krishna in the out sketch of New Delhi. The small town attracts thousand of devotees all over the world and it is well secured by thousands of police. The temple also shows the unity between the Hindus and Muslims. The Lord Krishna temple and a mosque shares a same compound wall.

After taking prasads in donas (a cup made of large leaves), which was quite delicious, I left Mathura and I came back to Delhi to catch my train to Chennai. My 7 day trip ended at New Delhi railway station with a surprise, my best friend Dipti came to the railway station to see me along with her parents and her beautiful sister and she have presented a beautiful watch, my trip ended up with tears and a hug and a big pizza from my dear friend.

The complete route (* indicate Night Stays):-

Delhi – Panipat- Chandigarh Ambala - Shimla(*) - Mandi - Kullu - Manali(*) - Rohtang Pass - Manali (*) - Kullu - Mandi - Bilaspur - Rupnagar - Panchkula - Ambala – Delhi – Mathura-Delhi
In all I travelled more than 1500 kilometers in 7 days.

To know more details on hotels, place and travel packages email me at tenarasimhan@gmail.com

Home

Samode Palace Rajput-Mughal architecture

2006-03-23T20:24:00.000-08:00

SAMODE PALACE, a magnificent example of Rajput-Mughal architecture, it boasts some of the finest frescoes and mirror-work in Rajasthan. The 150-year-old Samode Palace stands in serene sprawling splendour on a hilltop at the end of a dusty road and bad road, an hour's drive from Delhi - Jaipur highway. The palace surrounded by Aravali Mountain.

I was travelling from Delhi to Jaipur on a official visit, since it was weekend I thought let me spend the weekend in a calm and in one of the royal palaces.

Through one my friend who is in Delhi i came to know about Samode Palace. After an hour and half drive from the Delhi – Jaipur highway on the bad roads and crossing few villages we reached Samode Palace, as I enter the town it was a late evening the whole village was in the dark, when my car turned in a sharp right curve the whole place was in the yellow lights and infront of my eyes a huge palace. As I stepped out from my car chill air and wings crossed me, within a second the huge doors of the place opened and two people came out and walking towards me in their traditional dresses. For a second I went back to the whole days and was thinking how the guests were welcomed.

While I was climbing on the steps my eyes was still at the palace as I climb the steps I felt the palace is also growing and going to touch the sky.

After I checked into the hotel, I was escorted to my room. The room was big enough to play tennis, the whole room and the sealing was painted with Rajasthan works. After checked into the room I went to the bathroom to have shower, as I entered the bathroom I was stunned for a minute and was looking amazed it was built in one single white stone including the lion face bath tub. Sitting in the bathroom i can look at the sky, stars and the moon, what a romantic scene it was.

I came back to this world when the hotel people knocked my door, I travelled to some other world when I was sitting inside the bathtub. Then after my dinner I went to my bed. The bed was huge and the silk sarrees or what should I call it was tied between the sealing and the four corners of my bed.

Then next day morning I was awaked up by the peacocks. After a tea i went to play tennis to the nearby tennis court, which was once used for wrestling competition.

Then after quick breakfast I went around the palace. The hand-painted walls and gilded pillars in the hall are also breathtaking. The grand Durbar Hall with its huge chandelier was the place for holding all state functions in Samode. Overlooking the hall is the magnificent Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace). It was from here, through the jali (latticed) screens, that the royal ladies could have a glance of what was happening in the hall below. Because in those days, women would not be allowed in men's gatherings, or even go out of their quarters. The Sultan Mahal has miniature style paintings on religious subjects. In fact, all rooms in the Samode Palace have painted panels of murals, often interspersed with decorations set with mirrorwork.

After a tour inside the palace day I took an ayurvedic massage in laze by the marble-mosaic pool set in a tranquil walled garden with views of the Aravalli Hills.

After lunch I visited a small artist's colony, which produces wonderful miniature paintings on old paper. A walk through the old painted havelis (mansions) of Samode can be real fun, like walking into the past.

I went on a camel to see the sun set in a desert and it was awesome and it was windy by the time i came back in the late evening the dinner was arranged in a open terrace under the dark sky and with the star and candle light.

Day 2
I visited Samode fort, Samode Bagh and Durbar Tent and spent a night a desert.

Samode Palace
This ochre and white hereditary home of the Nathawats which rises like a solid block out of the earth, is about 400 years old. For the first half of its existence, however, it was little more than a fortified Rajput stronghold. It was only in the early 19th century, during the times of Rawal Bairi Sal Singh and his son Rawal Sheo Singh, who was also a minister in the Jaipur court, that the feudal castle begin to wear the sumptuous look that it is now famed for. The most fabulous part of the palace is undoubtedly the extravagantly ornate Durbar Hall, built by Sheo Singh. The place glows with meenakari, an enamelling technique introduced by Man Singh.

Samode Fort
Samode Fort stands like a sentinel on a hill above the Samode Palace. This used to be the raja's former residence, before Samode Palace was built. Having being neglected for so long, it's in a pretty bad shape now. But the climb is worth just for the views alone. Ask the caretaker to open the gate if you want a peek inside the dilapidated ramparts. The fort also has a secret underground passage to it, which was used during times of emergency. Walking among the ruins and the surroundings makes one feel as if one is in another era. In fact, wherever you go in Samode, you'll find a glimpse of the past, yet untouched by time.

Note:- The walk into the Aravallis can be a tiring one, so remember to wear good shoes and carry your own water.

Samode Bagh
The Samode Bagh is a sylvan retreat modelled on the geometric style of the Mughal garden. It was built by Rawal Sheo Singh, a scion of the Nathawat clan of Rajputs. Members of the royal family would come and spend moments of privacy and pleasure in the airy pavilions surrounded by fountains and water channels. This 400-year-old place has now been beautifully restored and thrown open to visitors.

Durbar Tent
Step into the elegant Durbar Tent for a taste of desert hospitality. Traditional Rajasthani music, song and dance seem to fill up the spaces between fruit trees, grape vines and shrubs of jasmine, oleander and hibiscus that grow in the surrounding lawns. The more adventurous ones can explore the countryside by camel safari. It’s a joyous experience staying in the tents of Samode Bagh complete with attached bathrooms, a swimming pool, croquet and tennis courts.

After spending the night in the tent the next day I packed up things I left to Jaipur then to Udaipur, Jaisilmer and its desert festival and to few other place. Please read my travellog on Rajasthan to know more my trip to these places.

The highlights of Samode Palace
Meticulously restored to accentuate the wonderful architecture and grand scale, amazing mosaics and frescoes, gorgeous swimming pool, though not heated, camel safaris in the bush at sunset, superb wine list and excellent cuisine.

Samode palace in Jaipur is famous as a former residence of erstwhile kings of Rajasthan India one among them was Raja Nathawat Clan one of the lesser clans in Rajput ridden Rajasthan. But these chieftains did in no way misprize their status; they adopted the title of 'Rawal' for themselves. The region was under the larger Jaipur kingdom, and one of the wealthiest in it. The Rawals of Samode were absolute lords of their small fiefdoms, but some of them were also ministers in the Jaipur court. At times they went beyond their means to prove their loyalty, like what one Rawal Ram Singh did. At just 16 he fought fiercely and successfully defending the fort of Ranthambhore against the powerful Marathas, and according to legend, even after his head had been severed from his body!

How to get there
Jaipur is the nearest city for Samode palace which is about 56 km. The nearest airport 56 km in Jaipur, Railway station - 40 km in Jaipur and from New Delhi International Airport - 250 km

Where to stay
Samode Bagh is a garden paradise situated 4 km from Samode Palace, nestled on 20 acres of beautiful grounds combines warmth and luxury, an atmosphere that is quiet, relaxed & elegant. Samode Bagh offers a unique experience of an air-conditioned tented camp where the dune coloured tents are luxuriously furnished with every comfort.

Want to know more about place, hotel and package tours write to me at tenarasimhan@gmail.com

Home

A fort built in 5 days - Panchalankurichi

2006-03-23T20:14:00.000-08:00

A fort in Panchalankurichi tells us how our great and brave freedom fighters fought against the British and died for our freedom. One among such a legend was Veerapandiya Kattabomman, a brave warrior who laid down his life for his motherland. Panchalankurichi Fort holds the greatest record - it was built in five days with new techniques.

I started my journey to know more about this legend and about the fort to the town of Panchalankurichi from Tuticorin in Tamil Nadu .

A 90 kilometer drive was tiring due to the hot sun which made us to stop in the middle for two times to have tender coconut. I reached Panchalankurichi which still known for courage from the 18th century.

I passed through few arch which named in the memory of the war heroes and I entered into a small fort, which was constructed by the Tamil Nadu Government in 1972 stands as a monument to this great hero Veerapandiya Kattabomman's from the south who played a pivotal role in the freedom movement of our country.

Fort of Panchalankurichi
The Fort of Panchalankurichi is one of the greatest examples of Indian architect. Twice the East India Company destroyed the fort after capturing the Kattabomman.

Kattabomman’s brother Ummaidurai came to Panchalankurichi after spending 16 months in the jail on February 2, 1801. He gathered all his people and built a new fort, which can face tanks.

The fort was built in five days involving 7,000 workers with new techniques. In February 8, 1801 General Vellsdurai of East India Company looked at this fort and was surprised he called this fort as another Gibraltar.

After capturing the fort from Ummaidurai the East India Company destroyed the fort with great difficulty. The fort of Panchalankurichi was razed to the ground and the English soldiers looted all of Kattabomman’s wealth.

The Tamil Nadu Government at Panchalankurichi reconstructed a fort in 1972 stands as a monument to this great hero from the south who played a pivotal role in the freedom movement of our country.

Why Kattabomman choose Panchalankurichi
During his hunting in the forest of Salikulam, Kattabomman watched the spectacle of a hare chasing seven hounds. Kattabomman was amazed at this miracle. Believing that the land possessed great powers that could instil courage in people, he built his fort there and named it Panchalankurichi.

Veerapandiya Kattabomman
Kattabomman was a fearless chieftain who refused to bow down to the demands of the British and gave them sleepless nights to the British East India Company, between 1798 and 1801, a brave warrior who laid down his life for his motherland.

The fight he launched in Panchalankurichi has been hailed as the inspiration behind the first battle of independence of 1857, which the British called the “Sepoy Mutiny”.

Born in this clan of Adi Kattabomman was Veerapandiyan on January 3, 1760 – the 47th king of Panchalankurichi. On February 2, 1790, Veerapandiyan, thirty, became the king of Panchalankurichi.

War against Panchalankurichi
The Nawab of Arcot who had borrowed huge sums of money from the East India Company gave them the right to collect taxes and levies from the southern region in lieu of the money he had borrowed. The East India Company took advantage of the situation and plundered all the wealth of the people in the name of tax collection. All the ‘poligars’ paid taxes except Veerapandiyan Kattabomman.

Kattabomman refused to pay his dues and for a long time refused to meet Jackson the Collector of the East India Company. Finally, he met Jackson at ‘Ramalinga Vilasam’, the palace of Sethupathi of Ramanathapuram. The meeting ended in a skirmish in which the Deputy Commandant of the Company’s forces, Clarke was slain. Kattabomman and his men fought their way to freedom and safety, but Thanapathi Pillai, Kattabomman’s secretary was taken as prisoner.

The Commission of Enquiry that went into the incident fixed the blame on Jackson and relieved him of his post, thinking the Company’s plan to take over the entire country gradually could be marred by Jackson’s fight with Veerapandiya Kattabomman. The new Collector of Tirunelveli wrote to Kattabomman calling him for a meeting on March 16, 1799. Kattabomman wrote back citing the extreme drought conditions for the delay in the payment of dues and also demanded that all that was robbed off him at Ramanathapuram be restored to him. The Collector wanted the ruling house of Sethupathis to prevent Kattabomman from aligning himself with the enemies of the Company and decided to attack Kattabomman.

Kattabomman refused to meet the Collector and a war broke out. Under Major Bannerman, the army stood at all the four entrances of Panchalankurichi’s fort. At the southern end, Lieutenant Collins was on the attack. When the fort’s southern doors opened, Kattabomman’s warriors killed him.

After suffering heavy losses, the English decided to wait for reinforcements from Palayamkottai. Sensing that his fort could not survive a barrage from heavy cannons, Kattabomman left the fort that night.

A price was set on Kattabomman’s head. Thanapathi Pillai and 16 others were taken prisoners. Thanapathi Pillai was executed and his head perched on a bamboo pole was displayed at Panchalankurichi. Veerapandiya Kattabomman stayed at Kolarpatti at Rajagopala Naicker’s house where the forces surrounded the house.

Kattabomman and his aides fled from there and took refuge in the Thirukalambur forests close to Pudukkottai. Bannerman ordered the ruler of Pudukkottai to arrest Kattabomman. Accordingly, Kattabomman was captured and on October 16, 1799 the case was taken up (nearly three weeks after his arrest near Pudukkottai). After a summary trial, Kattabomman was hanged unceremoniously on a tamarind tree. The fort of Panchalankurichi was razed to the ground and all of Kattabomman’s wealth was looted by the English soldiers.

Kattabomman death
After escaping from Kolarpur Katttabomman along with his brothers went to Sivagangai by foot via Sozhapuram. Finally he reached palace of Vijayaraghunatha Thondaiman in Pudukootai.

Vijayaraghunatha Thondaiman gave tips to British about Kattabomman the palace was surrounded by the East India Company troop. Kattabomman was arrested while he was sleeping on October 1, 1799 Kattabomman.

After four days Kattabomman was taken to Kaayar where East India Company stayed on October 5, 1799. On October 16, 1799 at 10 am after a summary trial, Kattabomman was hanged unceremoniously on a tamarind tree.

Though Kattabomman soul went away from this earth still his courage and his life shows way for many others.

Kattabomman’s humanity
During the war between Panchalankurichi and East India Company lots of soldiers died on the both sides. East India Company never took away the bodies of their own soldiers who died during the first war in which Kattabomman won.

Kattabomman did all the ritual to the bodies for the British soldiers and he created a cemetery for British soldiers inside Panchalankurichi where lots of British soldiers are sleeping today.

How to get there
Near by small town to Panchalankurichi Ottapidaram is about 3 Kms and nearby city is Tuticorin or Tirunelvelli closest airport Madurai.

Home

Somnathpur finest example of Hoysala architecture

2006-03-23T20:08:00.000-08:00

Talakad and Somnathpur is one of the finest examples of Hoysala Dynasty architecture. My drive started from Mysore and it took more than 2 hours to cover 32 kms by road since roads are heavily damaged.

Talakad is situated on the left bank of the River Cauvery. It is one of the oldest towns in the state. It was capital of the Gangas [6th century A.D.], Talakad has a number of temples including Vaidyeshware. Most of the temples are buried by sand, a few buildings, including a 12th century Hoysala temple, still poke through the surface. Once every 12 years this surreal temple is dug out for the performance of Panchalinga Darshan, though it doesn’t take long for it to be smothered once again by the sand. (Click here to See more pictures)

Somanathapura situated around 32 kms east of Mysore again on the banks of the River Cauvery. Keshava temple built here is the 13th century A.D. with exquisite carvings is a fine example of the Hoysala style of architecture in this tiny village. The temple was built in 1268 and is in a walled courtyard, entered at the east end via gate and porch. Around the north, west and south sides of the country yard run colonnaded cloisters with the doorway to 64 separate cells all of which originally held sculptures of various deities. The temple itself sits on an irregularly shaped multifaced 1m-high platform.

A Hoysala minister named Somnatha, during the reign of King Narasimhan III, founded Somnathpur. It was granted the area to a group of Brahmins to form an agrahara. If we look back the history it tells us that this community was so learned that even the parrots were able to hold discussions with this community.

The layout of the temple is known as trikutachala i.e it has three shrines, above each of which rises a separate tower. As you enter the temple two stone elephants will welcome us the upper wals are set with pierced screens. Below these screens, bands of decoration stretch all the way to the ground. Working upwards, they show elephants, horsemen, scrollwork and series from the epic poems. Inside the temple, the triple shrines all face into the middle hall. The north sanctum holds an image of Janaradhana, and the south santum holds an image of Krishna playing his flute below the Govardan hill. The main image of Keshava is no longer in place. The middle hall is notable for its huge and perfectly tuned pillars. The deep-carved ceiling panels that adorn both the middle and outer halls are particularly worth to note.

The exterior there were six bands of decoration, comprising elephants, horsemen, scroll work, scenes from the epics, a row of makras (mythical creatures) and a row of swans. There were around 200 images on the wall which surrounds the temple the images include gods and goddesses especially various avatharas of Vishnu.

The third layer teaches about our daily life, what we have to do and how we have to run our life. It also displays few works from Kamasutra.

The sad thing is most of the visitors to these temples are tourist coming from foreign countries since access to these places both interms of roads and connectivity is very difficult.

How to get there
By rail and road - Somnathpur is situated around 40 km off Mysore and well connected by road and rail to Mysore and Bangalore, which is 180 km away.

BY air - Bangalore is the nearest major airport connected to most of the major Indian cities with regular flights.

For more details about the place, accomodation and package tours write to me at tenarasimhan@gmail.com

Home

Rajasthan - Land of Maharaja’s

2006-03-23T19:49:00.000-08:00

Rajasthan or Land of Maharaja’s is the homeland of the Rajputs, who are known for their chivalry, valor and heroism. In battle, the Rajputs preferred death to dishonour. Rajasthan not only famous for it’s desert, forts and palaces it is know for it’s hospitality.

My 3,000 km journey to Rajasthan started from the Indian capital city of Delhi to the cities of Mandawa – Bikaner – Jaisalmer – Jodhpur - Mount Abu – Udaipur – Jaipur via Samode palace and finally I concluded the trip back in Delhi.

Rajasthan
In ancient times this land was known as Rajaputana. The union of 22 former princely states such as Udaipur, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Bikaner and Jaisalmer has formed the present state of Rajasthan.

The Aravali mountain range divides the state into eastern and western halves. Rajasthan has a large expanse of rocky land and sandy desert interspersed with forest and fertile tracts. It has burning sands, shimmering lake palaces, forts and innumerable temples. The hardships of the desert have inspired rich colour and pageantry amongst its people.

Rajasthan is the largest state in India in terms of area. It borders Pakistan to the west, Gujarat to the southwest, Madhya Pradesh to the southeast, Uttar Pradesh and Haryana to the northeast and Punjab to the north. Rajasthan covers an area of 342,239 km² (132,139 mi²;).

The state capital is Jaipur. Geographical features include the Thar Desert in western Rajasthan and the termination of the Ghaggar River. One of the world's oldest mountain ranges, the Aravalli Range, cradles the only hill station of Rajasthan, Mount Abu, and its world famous Dilwara Temples. Eastern Rajasthan has two national tiger reserves, Ranthambore and Sariska, as well as Keoladeo National Park near Bharatpur, famous for its bird life.

Day 1
The Delhi-Rajasthan highway was well planned and it allowed us to drive 100-110 kms per hour. My first stop was at Samode Palace. Since I reached the palace late in the night I couldn’t do many activities.

Day 2
As the sun rose with his glorious red rays, I saw a Rajasthani farmer couple engaged in their farm. The husband was pulling water out of a very deep well with the help of a pair of bulls and a leather pouch, as he sang folk songs. The woman was emptying the pouch as it came out of the well. The wheat fields looked a burning red in colour, as if the farmer's sweat and blood had smeared the crop. As I was getting ready I could hear I kept hearing the folk song.

The distant mountains and fortresses reminded me of the glorious era that had gone by.

Click here to read more about Samode Palace and my two-day activities in Samode Palace

Day 3
After spending two nights in Samode Palace I headed to Mandawa which is famous for its number of forts and havelies which attracts large number of tourist every year.

As i drove for 10minutes from Samode palace we passed through the villages and people were looking at us and they were waving their hands. I stopped my car near to a small shop, which sells Jelebies (traditional sweet). I remember people saying Jelebies of this town is very famous. What they said was right it was very tasty and as soon I put that in my mouth they melted and it was hot, crisp, and delicate. I tried Kachori and samosas and drank tea from an earthen cup.

Then I continued my journey to Mandawa, the land of Shekha (Rao Shekhaji 1433-1488) is known for its human and artistic enterprises. This region has been the home of the Marwari community, known for their commercial success. Hundreds of havelis, temples, cenotaphs, walls and forts in this region have intricate wall paintings or frescoes.

Castle Mandwa and Havelie are the two major attractions in Mandawa the castle was built in 1755 which has two gateways. There are several rooms with many narrow staircases, courtyards and a terrace which offers an excellent view of the town. This castle is now converted into a charming heritage hotel. So this is not only a place to visit but also to stay.

There are several havelies like the Chokhani, Ladia, Saraf havelis, Binsidhar Newatia Haveli etc. which houses some beautiful ancient paintings.

I passed through Nawalgarh which is situated arround 37 km south of Mandawa. Nawalgarh is famous for its forts, built in 1737. There are also several havelis like Anandi Lal Poddar, Aath Haveli, Hem Raj Kulwal Haveli and the Khedwal Bhawan.

Other place around Mandawa include Mukundgarh which is a tiny village situated arround 25 km southeast of Mandawa again its famous for its forts and havelis. Parsurampur 43 km south east of Mandawa has one of the oldest houses and paintings in the region.

Dundlod is famous for its forts and havelies. Jagathia Haveli, Satyanarayan Temple, the Dundlod forts and palace are some of the major attractions in this place.

After spending a day in Mandawa i drove for 200 km to reach Bikaner, which stands on, the northern tip of the desert triangle. The major attraction in Bikaner is Junagadh Fort built in 1587 to protect 37 palaces, temples and pavilions within the fort, is one of its kinds.

Junagadh fort or Akbar's contemporary, Raja Rai Singh, began building Bikaner's Junagadh Fort is one of the finest of Rajput monuments, even though it lacks the commanding hilltop site of the forts at Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Amber and Chittor. Junagadh is one of the few forts in India which has never been conquered, though it was often attacked. For four centuries Junagadh was the heart of an important autonomous kingdom where the public came daily, as a matter of right, to lay their problems and petitions before their Maharaja, or to eat at the communal kitchen from which no one could be turned away hungry.

Today Junagadh houses a museum of valuable miniature paintings and other rare items that are several centuries old. Sir Swinton Jacob for Maharaja Ganga Singh designed Lalgarh Palace - the imposing red sandstone monument. The 14th century Jain temples of Bhandeshwar and Sandeshwar and their gold leaf paintings are noteworthy. After spending the day in Bikaner I decided to drive the whole night to Jaisalmer.

Day 4
Early morning we reached Jaisalmer which is famous for its desert and its festival, I met my local guide near to the fort and he took me to the desert on which I stayed on the tent which was well equipped with beds and water facility. Staying in desert was a different experience especially during the nights since it was too windy i couldn’t come out during the nights overall it was an different experience.

After refreshing myself I visited Sonar Kila fort the foundation of the fort was laid in 1156 A.D on Trikuta hill by the Bhatti Chief Jaisal. The fort also called Sonar Kila- a Golden Fort, made of yellow sandstone, seems to ignite into a golden flame when scorched by the desert sun.

About a fourth of the old city's population resides within the fort walls. Numerous bastions of upto 325 ft are made accessible through gates-Ganesh Pol, Akshya Pol, Suraj Pol and Hawa Pol.

There is a cross cultural merging of Rajput and Islamic building styles. Within the fort are there are a group of beautifully carved Jain temples built between 12th to 15th centuries and are dedicated to Rikhabdevji and Sambhavanthji. There are also beautifully carved Havellis of rich merchants and nobles.

Kumbhalgarh fort was built by Maharana Kumbha in the 15th century. Range upon range of the Aravalli hills protects this impregnable fortress, the second most important citadel of Mewar. Surrounded by thirteen mountain peaks, guarded by seven great gates and seven ramparts, strengthened by rounded bastions and immense watch towers, this mountain fortress has witnessed many battles. Within the fort are many temples and palaces. Seven majestic gates lead to Badal Mahal which encloses beautiful rooms with pleasant color schemes of green, turquoise and white, which provides a fascinating contrast to the raw, earthy and grim fortress.

Khimsar balanced on the edge of the Great Thar Desert this unique fort offering a wide range of experiences. The battle-scarred walls and turrets remind of the glorious past. In mid-18th Century the royal family moved in and a new "zenana" or ladies residence was built with finely carved windows in stone grills to provide "purdah" or veil for ladies in waiting. Subsequently, in the 1940's, Thakur Onkar Singh built for himself a regal wing. Today Welcomegroup Khimsar fort ranks amongst the premier classified Heritage Hotels of India.

The fort is honeycombed with winding lanes, and has formidable gateways, a maharaja's palace, a ceremonial courtyard and beautifully carved Jain temples. The most beautiful of the havelis built by Jaisalmer's wealthy merchants are Patwon ki Haveli, Salim Singh ki Haveli and Nathmal ki Haveli. Despite its incredible picturesqueness, you don't have to look very hard to realise that Jaisalmer is crumbling at an alarming rate. Camel trekking is big business in Jaisalmer and it's a great way to experience the desert.

Desert festival
Thousand of visitors are coming during the three daylong desert festival which will be held every year in the months of January and February on a spectacular event coinciding with the full moon which shows the rich culture of the region. The famous Gair and Fire dances are the major attraction of the celebrations. Interesting contests including a turban tying competition and a Mr. Desert contest further enhance the fun of the occasion. A trip to the Sam Sand dunes marks the grand finale, where one can enjoy camel rides and brilliant performances by the folk artiest under the full moon against the backdrop of picturesque dunes.

This desert fortress close to Rajasthan's border with Pakistan is straight out of an Arabian fairy tale. Founded in the 12th century as a staging post for camel trains travelling between India and Central Asia, Jaisalmer is a golden sandstone city with crenellated city walls, a magnificent fortress and a number of exquisitely carved stone and wooden havelis. Seen at sunset from afar, it glows with the luminescence of a mirage.

Day 5
After spending two nights in Jaisalmer I drove for 287 kms to Jodhpur which is the former capital of Marwar state. It was founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha. Mehrangarh Fort spreading over 5 km on a perpendicular hill and looking down 125 metres is the main tourist attraction and it appears rugged and impenetrable from the outside but houses some of the most intricately adorned palaces with exquisitely carved panels and latticed windows. Moti Mahal, Phool Mahal, Sheesh Mahal are some of the important palaces to visit. A collection of royal cenotaphs, built in while marble, lies very close to the fort. Built in 1899, the cenotaph also houses portraits of rulers of Jodhpur.

After spending the day in Jodhpur overnight we drove to Mount Abu and we reached Mount Abu in the early morning.

Day 6
It was an pleasant day since the climate was chill and it was drizzling and moreover Mount Abu, situated in the midst of towering forests, its sylvan setting is complete with the mango, bamboo, eucalyptus, date-palm, silk, cotton and lime trees. Mount Abu is the only hill station in Rajasthan and is also a pilgrimage as the famous Dilwara Jain temples are located here. Gaumukh, a natural spring that flows through a sculpted cow's head, Nakki Lake and Sunset point are the other places of interest. After experiencing hot days in desert I spent overnight in Mount Abu and then the next day morning I left to Udaipur via Ranakpur which is famous for its temple.

Day 7
Ranakpur the Jain community had always enjoyed the patronage of the ruling family of Mewar and the Jains held quite a few important positions. In 15th century, Rana Kumbha of Mewar gave a large stretch of land in a quite and picturesque valley, deep in the Aravallis, to the Jains. This area came to be known as Ranakpur, Located 96 km from Udaipur, this is one of the five main holy places of the Jains. For over 500 years these temples are well preserved in perfect condition. The central temple is the Chaumukha temple, dedicated to Adinath, the first Jain Tirthankar (saint). This temple is the most complex and extensive in design. It has 29 halls, 80 domes and 1,444 pillars. What is interesting is that no two pillars are alike. I reached Udaipur on the same day evening and spent the night in Udaipur.

Day 8
Udaipur is one of the most beautiful cities in all of Rajasthan, better known as cities of Lake, founded by Maharana Udai Singh, the places of interest include Lake Palace, City Palace which has several carved balconies, arches and decorated pillars, Zenana Mahal, Fateh Prakash, Durbar Hall and Shambhu Niwas.

After Akbar destroyed Chittodgad, Pratap ran away to the Aravali mountain. Then his son Udaisingh built this beautiful city presently named after him.

The Jag Mandir Island was constructed at the time of Maharan Karan Singh. The palace was safe house for Shah Jahan. Jag Mandir Island inspired Shah Jahan to build Taj Mahal a symbol of love for his beloved. The Island is located at the lake of Pichola which witness beautiful gardens and exquisite carvings.

City Palace is a magnificent marvel over the lake amidst crenellated walls, comprises of rooms, pavilions, courtyards, hanging gardens and terrace.

One of the most beautiful attraction and work of Rajphuts is Lake Palace this exquisite white marble palace that seems to float majestically on the still waters of Lake Pichola. Originally built as a summer palace recently its transformed into a hotel and has recently been transformed to hotel.

Set amid awe-inspiring fairytale gardens, this 250-year old palace may be the most romantic hotel in the world. As a testimony to courtly love, the palace brims with princely details including marble pillars, ornate glasswork, intricate paintings, and much, much more.

Day 10
As I reached Jaipur I checked into one of the place hotels of Jaipur called Rambagh. I spent my first day in Rambagh and then I moved to Raj Vilas which is favourite hotel for former President of US Mr. Bill Clinton.

Rambagh spread over 47 acres of tranquil with beautiful gardens and is Jaipur’s foremost Royal Palace residence. Located close to the walled ‘Pink City’ the Palace unveils the rich culture and history of the erstwhile rulers of Rajasthan.

Built in 1835 as a hunting lodge and then converted to a palace in 1925 as the residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur and finally converted as India’s first palace hotel in 1957. An architectural masterpiece, Rambagh presents a fine blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture.

The rooms are nicely designed with Rajasthan work and sensitively restored to its former glory with refurbished rooms overlooking courtyards with fountains or verdant gardens, airy verandahs, idyllic front lawns and a warm intimate lobby. The hospitality which was showed gave a experience to live one day royal lifestyle at Rambagh.

The hotel also has an museum on which the personal train which was used by the Maharaja of Jaipur was an notable one.

My day started with a visit to Hawa Mahal the palace of winds built in 1799. The five storey building is on the busy road of Jaipur and it is a stunning example of Rajput artistry with its pink, delicately honeycombed sandstone windows, of which there are 953. It was originally built to enable the women of the royal household to watch the everyday life and processions of the city. The palace was built by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh and is a part of the city palace complex.

Most of the people come here to see the beautiful façade I climbed the top for a view of the city below; peer through the latticed windows to experience the fascinating interplay of gazes set up by the structure. The entrance is from the rear of the building.

Amber Fort, set in a picturesque location. Amer is a fascinating blend of Hindu and Muslim architecture. Built in the 16th century by Raja Mansingh in red sandstone and white marble, the palace complex has some very interesting apartments. Jai Mandir, Sheesh Mahal, Sukh Niwas, Ganesh Pol and Temple of Kali are some of the prominent areas of interest. Elephants are provided to ascend the fort to visit the complex or we can also go by walk or by vehicles.

Diwan-i-Am or Hall of Public Audience is the first delicate palace that will come across, as we enter the palace area through an imposing stairway. It is a well-proportioned forty pillared beautiful pavilion made with a pleasing combination of marble and red sandstone. Built by Mirza Raja Jai Singh, the pavilion functioned as a place where Maharajas received the general public and listened to their problems and various issues concerning the kingdom. The southern area was kept clear so that the royal ladies of the palace could watch the proceedings of their Diwan-i-Am from the zenana. (Women's quarters)

The pillars of the pavilion are worth noticing as they have been intricately carved, reflecting the mastery of the artisans of Rajasthan.

Shila Mata Temple dedicated to Shila Mata (Goddess Kali), the goddess of victory, the temple is located near the Singh Pol. The temple houses a unique black marble idol of the goddess, which was brought here from Jessore (now in Bangladesh) by Raja Man Singh in 1604. There is a famous legend attached to the idol. Before the war with the Maharaja of Bengal, Man Singh prayed to the Goddess for victory. The Goddess appeared in his dream and instructed him to retrieve her idol hidden in the mighty Bay of Bengal, if he won the war. Man Singh retrieved the idol after winning the battle and installed it in this temple.

The images of nine forms of Goddess Durga (strength) and ten forms of Goddess Saraswati (knowledge) are depicted on the silver gates of the temple. The mandap of the temple is made up of white marble contrasting with the color of the idol.

Ganesh Pol & Suhaag Mandir on the south of Diwan-i-Am lies an imposing gateway. The whole gateway has been very beautifully painted with vegetable colors using all the typical Rajasthani motifs. The attraction of the gateway however is the carved statue of Lord Ganesh, the elephant-headed god.

On the top of the gateway is the Suhaag Mandir, the chamber from where only the present queen was allowed to watch the events of the Hall of Public Audience from the marble jallis. From the Ganesh Pol steps lead to the beautiful garden or Charbagh, based on the Mughal pattern of gardens.

Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience), Sukh Niwas, Jai Mandir & Jas Mandir a typical merging of Rajput and Mughal architectural styles is captured in the fascinating Diwan-i-Khas, Sukh Nivas, Jai Mandir and Jas Mandir apartments along with the Charbagh garden with its perfectly proportioned landscaping. Diwan-i-Khas is decorated with beautiful mirror work and has wonderful carvings on the walls and the ceilings. The main attractions of the hall are the miniature murals made of colored glasses depicting Radha and Krishna.

Opposite to the Diwan-i-Khas is the Sukh Nivas, having doors made of sandalwood, inlaid with ivory. There is a channel running through the hall, which formerly carried cool water that worked as an air cooler with the aid of the breeze. Just next to the Sukh Niwas is the Jai Mandir or Hall of Victory, which houses the wonderful palace of mirrors, Sheesh Mahal or the Hall of Mirrors. The shimmering mirrors encrusting the walls and ceilings of the Sheesh Mahal can mesmerise any visitor with their intricate designs and patterns. Above the Sheesh Mahal is built the Jas Mandir or Hall of Glory. The major highlight of the palace is the pierced screen windows, which offer views from points of vantage. The beauty of Kesar Kyari (saffron bed), a garden of geometric design amidst the Maota Lake can also be admired from the alabaster windows of the palace. The Diwan-E-Khas, Sheesh Mahal and the Jai Mandir are worth a visit for anyone visiting Jaipur to bask in the glory of their exquisite mirror work.

Zenana or Women's apartments located behind the palace depicts erotic Krishna Leela scenes and surrounds a spectacular courtyard. In the earlier times, they were the private chambers from where the royal women could watch the proceedings of the royal court in privacy. The well-proportioned garden, Kesar Kyari in the center of Maotha Lake and the Dilaram Bagh at its north end provide a spectacular view of the palaces.

As I came out from the Amber fort I went to see Nahargarh or tiger Fort which overlooks the city of Jaipur from a sheer ridge to the north and is floodlit at night. The fort was built in 1734 by Jai Singh and extended in 1868. A 9 km road runs up through the hills from Jaipur, and the fort can be reached along a zigzagging 2km path which starts from the north - west of the old city. The glorious view fully justifies the effort. Inside the fort you can visit the Madhavendra Bhavan housing the nine apartments of Maharaja Ram Singh's nine wive. The rooms are linked by a maze of corridors and retain some delicate frescoes, as well as toilets and kitchen herths.

On my travel i enjoyed the camel and elephant ride on the renowned sand dunes, visited magnificent forts and havelies of Rajasthan, went for a picnic, even played tennis now its time for a movie at the famous Raj Mandir theatre, a unique theatre in the Asia.

It was the grand opening of Devdas starring Sharuk Khan. The building’s roofline swoops into the night sky with fantabulous twists and turns, lit up in greens and pinks, neon everywhere.

Finally my fun and the most enjoyable trip concluded by watching a tragedy movie. My 10 days trip to this magnificent land of Maharajas which showed me a great hospitality thus concluded.

The entire drive was through the land of colour, courage and chivalry each with its own unforgettable memories.

This trip gave me a deep insight into the luxurious life style of the Maharaja’s of Rajasthan in the by gone era.

Nearest airport is Jaipur and all the major cities are well connected by rail and road. Package tours are also available at best rates want to know more about on travel arrangements and about the place feel free to write at tenarasimhan@gmail.com

Home

The hardest and most dangerous trek at Parvathamalai

2006-03-23T19:47:00.000-08:00

The hardest, tiring and the most dangerous trek in my life was at Parvathamalai – Hill of Hill on a full moon day. It took almost 10 hours inside the deep hill forest to trek without any lights, water and food in the hardest rocks to reach 3,000 feet hill top.

Parvathamalai is located at Thenmahadevamangalam village which is about 20 kms from Polur is some 35 kms north of Thiruvannamali. There's a very powerful Lord Shiva temple at the top of the Parvathamalai hill. Devas and spiritual beings from other lokas worship here every night along with Siddhas. Even today numerous Siddhas are still visiting to worship lord Shiva worship. The local people told us they even rescued few pilgrimage people and the local people.

The hill flanked by trees and plants which are fertile slopes are host to various medicinal herbs which cured the disease. For example one of my friends who accompanied with me was suffering from Asthma for long time after visiting the hill he recovered fully and for the past 8 years he is coming on every full moon day to the herbal hill.

Reaching the hill is the most difficult. Hence it is better to start early in the morning and return as early as possible. During the Pournami full moon, this hill attracts a lot of devotees. This is a place vested with a lot of spiritual power.

On the normal days people won’t visit this hill and it is believed everyday both in the morning and evening Siddhas are doing pooja in the temple on the top of the hill.

I started my trek from Kadaladi, a village near Parvathamalai with bare foot along with a devotee and my friend who is coming here for 9th time to the hill in the late evening. Going without knowing the route is very dangerous as you might loose your track. So it is advisable to go in a group on which one should know the route.

After a wide pathway I entered into an narrow path where the forest begins infinite shades of green greet my eyes and a cool mountain breeze wipes the sweat off my face.
First stretch of 1000 feet I walked in the hard rocks and i was sweating since there were no breeze the trees and plants totally covered the place I could only hear insect sounds. It was totally dark we did not had torch light with the help of moon light only I was climbing the hill and I was carrying 2 ltr water bottle in my shoulders along with some biscuits packet.

I started feeling tired and my legs are started paining since the rocks started hurting my legs the friend who came with me said lets go back but I don’t want to give up and I don’t want to wear shoes also since all the devotees are climbing with bare food and moreover I don’t want to wear shoes in this divine hill where Siddhas are still living. After taking some rest I continued by trek.

After crossing 1000 feet a chill breeze touched my face and it took away the tiredness and the pain my body started shivering I never felt that much chilliness in my life though I visited the peaks in north India but this is something extraordinary.

There were few white arrow marks painted on rocks as a reminder that this is a well-worn path. Another indication of this is the graffiti scrawled across boulders. The ascending pathway plateaus out now and then, providing space for petty shopkeepers.

While the night started falling faster than I expect causing me to wonder wheather i will make it. After crossing about 2000 feet mark now the hardest part comes.

To reach the final stretch which is an natural arrangement of bald rocks. This stretch is bit difficult it is punctuated by iron rods drilled into the rocks and chains to assist at a sharp ascent of about 2500 feet and it is an one way traffic one person can only climb at a time. You have to be sure on the other side no one comes. You have to raise your voice from the bottom and once acknowledgment comes from the other end then only you can climb or you will be get caught in the middle.

The headwalls or extremely steep rock faces are tackled via iron ladders. To make the climb even more risk, small indents have been hollowed out in the rocks, serving as footholds.

So, with the moon and the stars lighting my path, I put my apprehensions behind me and started doing the rock-climbing. With great pain, fear and tension in my face finally and successfully I passed one more test the iron ladder.

After the tough rock climb now its through few stone steps which was sculptured in a rock while I was climbing on the steps I noticed a pond on my right side and on the left side it was totally free and I am at 3000 ft height.

My friend who came along with me told me that Siddhas use this pond water for doing poojas but there were no access or one could not reach the water.

Thinking on that think I appeared for my most dangerous and the last test this time I have to go around a huge rock and I have to walk on the railwaytrack bridge which is punctuated on the rocks. I have to take a circle of the rock to reach the other side on my right hand side there will be rock on the left side a steel net (just for name sake) if I fall I will fell from 3000ft,. with great challenge I crossed the track and I came to other end of the rock.

At last I reached the top the view was amazingggggggggg a furious blast of bone-cold wind and watch eddies of mist curl up the hills that ring Parvathamalai, which translates as `Hill of Hills'.

Although it was misty the view was breathless and it was too chill. When the mist lifts gently and finally disappears a small temple came into the view. While the temple is intact, the mist has gone to seed.

Inside the temple there were idols of Parthuvthaamman, Sivalingam, Lord Muruga and Lord Ganesa. All the poojas have to be done by us no priest was available on the temple. After performing pooja I came out and I was looking at the Nandi (bull god) which was covered by mist. After catching some sleep on the top I stared climbing down. The pain started increasing and the trekking back was more challenging compare to climbing up.

From the hill the surrounding hills relay voices back to you as echoes. Before climbing down, I test this with some screaming. The words that come back was "I DID IT AND I WILL COME BACK!" want to join with me?

How to get there
If you are planning to Parvuthamali better idea is on your own transport. The nearest town and railway stations are Vellore and Tiruvannamali and the nearest bus stop is Polur.

Home

Following Cauvery

2006-03-23T19:39:00.000-08:00

Following River Cauvery was an thrilling and nice trekking experience. In these three days i have seen different flows and look of Cauvery and i visited (stopped at) Nisardagama (bamboo forest or island in the banks of river Cauvery), Bylakkupe (small Tibet and second largest Tibet settlements outside Tibet), Coorg (on the Western ghats), Bhagamandala (meeting point of three rivers), Talacauveri (origin point of river Cauvery), Abbi Falls, Harangi Dam, Somnathpur (which speaks about Hoysala Dynasty architects (Click here to know more and for pictures), Sivasamudram Falls.

Cilck here for a photo tour on cauvery

Day 1
My Journey started from Bangalore in a white Tata Indica. My first stop was at Nisardagama after driving for 3-4 hours from Bangalore to reach the forest i have to cross the wire-bridge hanging across the Cauvery.

There's a mini zoo inside Nisargadhama, you can see only deer’s and you have treetop houses and also a small restaurant. Bamboo trees shade the whole island, first i thought will spend the night in the island (KSTDC got rooms in the island for nominal rate) but i wasn't lucky to get the rooms since it was weekend and the rooms were full.

Then i headed to Bylakuppe (Click here to read more about Bylakuppe for pictures), It was a pleasant evening that led us up this lush journey through Bylakuppe. We crossed the mountains, cut through the forests looking for Bylakuppe, which has a little more than four decades of history to it - Bylakuppe, a charming village, presents itself to the unsuspecting traveller. Bylakuppe or the ‘place of rains’ is one of the first and largest Tibetan settlements outside Tibet. One must visit the place and should visit the Golden Buddha Temple and the monastries.

By the time i came out from Bylakuppe Sun already started coming down and it started becoming dark, we decided we will directly drive towards Madherkari, market town and the capital of Coorg. The drive was too good it was in the middle of green forest, by the time we reached Madherkari it was in the late evening and it was raining we have to climb the hill and the road was bit bad not it was damaged due to traffic and no lights, finally we managed to reach Madherkari and checked into the hotel and we spent our night in Madherkari.

Day 2
The morning was very pleasant and it was too chill it was drizzling; everywhere mist and birds were singing. After a quick shower we got ready and we left from the hotel and we drove towards Talacauvery (head of Cauvery) the origin place of river Cauvery.
My first stop was at a small temple it was an Shiva temple which was surrounded my green plants and flowers we stopped for few minutes.

On the way, we were shown the crop of Ilaichi (cardamom), Coffee and Pepper. These spices and coffee are quite expensive and hence we were quite glad to see landscape full of these crops!!

Then we stopped at Thiruveni Sangamam or Bhagamandala the place where three rivers Cauvery, Sujyothi (which is underground) and Kanike meet.

Then we headed to Talacauvery on the way we stopped at Sri Bhagandeshawara Temple. As we stopped our car we saw signboards saying Bison may cross the road so please watch your drive. Behind the board a huge green mountain with waterfall and the birds were flying. As we started driving in the hill the road was not visible at all because of the mist.

Finally we reached the Talacauvery, when we stepped out from the car we were not visible to each other because the clouds hided us from each other in the back ground I could hear the voice of S P Balasubramaniam (a well known singer) singing a song on the river Cauvery.
We reached the top of the hill first we saw a big pool and there was a small pool close to the big pool from where the Cauvery originates. I decided to take bath on the pool though none of the tourist were ready including my friends because of the climate it was not only chilly it was raining. I decided I will take bath so I removed my shirt and pant and I went for a bath and everyone were looking at me I didn’t bother, all I need a bath in the holy pool.

After Talacauvery we headed to Mysore via Abifalls, Harangi dam. Abi falls (Abbi means falls but according to history the falls was named in memory of a girl named Abbi who was a daughter of an British collector who was ruling the area.

It was a pretty place, we parked our car on the tip of an hill after we parked we started walking in a forest for 10 mins we couldn’t see anything except trees suddenly noise started coming it’s nothing but sound of the water fall, Cauvery drops from 20-25 m height. The falls are located in a private coffee estate.

From Abifalls we headed to Harangi dam. It was a large and a very big dam. It is an ideal place for picnic. We couldn’t enter into the dam since we reached late in the evening but we enjoyed the overall view and we could manage to reach as close to the falls through our own discovery route. We took another route, which few people only can discover.

From Harangi Dam we headed to Mysore and we spent our overnight at Mysore.

Day 3
It was a pleasant morning prayer from the nearby mosque and the temple woke me up. As i opened my window screen I could see the Chamundi hill where Sri Chamundesari Temple.
After a quick shower we checked out the room, we stopped in a nearby restaurant for break fast. After packing fruits and biscuits we proceeded towards Somnathpur, which is 33km east of Mysore. It was an hard drive the road was too bad, but worth for the trouble. It took 2hrs to reach the temple in Somnathpur. It is a tiny village notable for the remarkable Keshava Temple that stands near the side of a dusty lane.

Although the Hoysalas left behind many exquisite temples, this temple is famous both for its fantastic detail and because unlike the temples in Halebid and Belur it was actually finished. The whole temple speaks about Hoysala tremendous work and their intelligence for building these sculptures and the temple built.

We left Somanthpur in the afternoon and we headed to Shivasamudram where Cauvery drops from more than 75m. The twin waterfalls is the best place for trekkers but it will be a bit dangerous also. We decided to take the risk to explore the beauty.

By the time we came back from the trek it was around 7, we have to reach Bangalore before 10 because our train was at 10.30 and it is not easy to reach within 3hrs because of the road condition. We managed to reach the station on time thanks to our cab driver Shiva.

“Three days of fun travel and exploration thus came to an end. This trip might end but my journey will continue.”

Home

Rothang Pass

2006-03-23T19:09:00.000-08:00

Reaching Rothang Pass will probably remain as the best adventure of my life. Driving in Tata Qualis in the challenging roads and landslides gave a thrill that I guess is not achievable anywhere else except in Himachal Pradesh. Himachal (Him+Aanchal) literally means a dupatta or cover of snow

My drive to Rothang pass started from New Delhi via three states of the country include New Delhi, Punjab and Uttar Pradesh and finally to Himachal Pradesh.

The drive was full of breath taking sceneries and it was challenging because of the landslide and it was raining also. We travelled on narrow, winding roads, which hug the mountains on one side and have the river Beas on the other. The river flows sometimes in narrow streams and sometimes in wide span, sometimes at the road level and other times deep below the road. The water is pure and clean but keeps changing its colour. The roads are narrow and the turns give a new meaning to the phrase “hairpin turn”. Sometimes, an oncoming vehicle has to stop to let you pass the drive was very thrilling and it was scary moreover it was raining.

The drive provided one with a 360-degree view of the panoramic scenery of the land it traverses. The drive cheerfully chugs along mountain loops and valleys through dozens of tunnels, gorges and valleys. One could even run along it and get on it if one were bold enough to do so.

While I drove to Rothang from Manali I stopped at Arjun Gufa, Vashist, Nehrukund and Solang Valley, which was an amazing in a picturesque setting; this has good ski slopes end picnic spots. It has the glacier closest to Manali. The adventurous valley for skiing, paragliding and horse riding. Solang valley serves as a base camp for various popular treks and the slopes are considered one of the best in the world for skiing. In winters 15 to 26 feet high 'Shivlingam' is formed of the water falling from the hills.

We couldn’t move further to Rothang pass from the valley since the roads are closed and lots of landslide with the help of our Army Jawans the road was cleared and it was opened but it took three hours to clear up the road.

Finally I reached my destination Rohtang Pass located at a height of 3980 m, which is once served as a crucial trade route, and still remains the gateway to the districts of Lahaul and Spiti.

The pass is open from June to November each year, and provides the most spectacular gateway to Lahaul and Ladakh, Rohtang Pass is situated at a distance of 52 km from the Manali market and it offers you a beautiful panorama of the uncharted Western Himalayas and offers wonderful views of the entire surroundings. Just beyond the pass is the Sonapani Glacier and the twin peak of Gaypan. The Beas Kund, the source of the Beas River, a holy site for Hindus, as the sage Vyas is said to have meditated at this spot, is also accessible from the Rohtang Pass. Rani Nullah, below Rohtang Pass. Height 3700m. Rani Nullah is shortly before the Rohtang Pass into Lahaul, at about 55km from Manali.

After spending the whole day on the ice and snow in Rothang Pass i left the place with half heart and I headed back to Manali.

How to get there
The nearest town for Rohtang Pass is Manail by road 50-kms and it will take atleast two to three hours by road provided if there are no landslides or accidents on the road. Situated about 50-km from Manali town, at an altitude of 4,111m on the highway to Keylong, is the Rohtang Pass. The Nearest airport to Manali is Bhuntar and 49 kms away. By Rail Yhe nearest railhead is that of Joginder Nagar and this narrow gauze railway station is 95-km from Kullu.

By Road: The road to Manali passes through the picturesque valley of Kullu. The motorable roads to Manali connect the town with other major tourist places in Himachal as well as in the nearby states.

Where to stay
Span Resorts (5 Star Hotel) at Suburban. It is nestled among acres of woodland and landscaped gardens, on the Kullu-Manali highway near Manali. From airport (Dom.): 37KM., Airport (Intl.): 550KM., Bus stand: 15KM., City center: 15KM., Railway station: 300KM.

Piccadily Hotel (4 Star Hotel) close to The Mall and is located a few yards away from the centre of Manali. From airport: 40KM and from bus stop 0.4KM.

Shingar Regency (3 Star Hotel) Shingar Regency Manali is just next to Manali's landmark-the famous Hadimba temple.From domestic airport 50KM from City Center: 1KM.

Sonw Field (Budget Hotel) from the main market it's about two kms and it gives you peaceful and nice hill view.

Package tours are also available at best rates want to know more about on travel arrangements and about the place feel free to write at tenarasimhan@gmail.com

Home